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Dincho
27th Jun 2011, 08:55 AM
I have decided to set up a couple shrimp tanks the Japanese way, with 3 in line filters. Has/does anybody run 2 or 3 canister filters inline?

Is it as simple as just connecting out flow pipe to in flow on all canister filters? (i plan on running 3 per tank)

Thanks

imke_j
28th Jun 2011, 05:58 AM
I did not try it myself yet, but a friend of mine let the active filter PUSH the water into the second (passive) filter in line. You have to take off the impeller of the passive filter to guarantee current and adjust a slow flow rate. Filter medium in the second canister is Sera Siporax. Hope that helps!

gourmettea
28th Jun 2011, 06:22 AM
I was running 2 X 2215 inline. I use the second one to pull the water though. I removed the chain after a few weeks because I found some prefilters. Like this guy has on his tank.

http://www.shrimpnow.com/forums/showthread.php/6657-Just-Another-Shrimp-Tank


Same thing just not wasting a 2215.

matblack
28th Jun 2011, 12:05 PM
I use a pre-filter infront of my 2217 ,works well and i haven't touched it for 6 months
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/8757/barrin405.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/barrin405.jpg/)
Also have one of these and works very well
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/6725/mollyscam150.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/190/mollyscam150.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

Cipher
28th Jun 2011, 01:52 PM
Similar to matt, I run 2 prefilters connected to an eheim 2217, the eheim 2217 comes with eheim media's that it comes with and the prefilter, i put in filter sponge on both, ocasionally, i'd see the sponge getting dirty after 2-4 weeks and change it every 4-5 weeks, i find this useful as little dirt goes through the main eheim 2217 filter thus making it easier to maintain my filtration units.

Dincho
28th Jun 2011, 03:43 PM
Thanks for all the replies, i found exactly what i wanted.

I think i will run a couple external canisters inline with a couple pre filters also, i am just hoping flow rate is not effected.

I have been looking about at pre filters but can't find any of a good size, any recommendations?

Thanks again

Cipher
29th Jun 2011, 12:26 AM
Hi,

I got mine from ebay, theres a shop that sells pre-filters i'll pm you the site. As for the flow, well im using eheim 2217 for a 2ft tank and the water flow pretty strong the way it is. I think it was a good idea adding a prefilter as the flow slows down abit, it only slows down alot when the prefilters are really dirty and starts getting clogged so regular maintenance is a must.

Kingkong
14th Aug 2011, 01:31 PM
Hi,

I also planning to use 2 to 3 canisters in line, but have no idea how to attach everything. The pre filter usage looks really good and I understand the idea behind it.
So, do you guys (when using pre filter) jam the canister full with siporax?

How do you guys connect the canisters into 1 inlet and 1 outlet?
How do you manage the different power from the canisters
because I have Eheim 2224, 2217, 2215 and 2213...
will the different models be a problem?

bikersoy
14th Aug 2011, 02:17 PM
You can use containers that are used to filter water

http://www.aysagua.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/0/1/010101_2.jpg

You can buy the inner vessel and fill perlon or put a particulate filter.
You can also do a little DIY

http://vidasubacuatica.blogspot.com/2010/11/prefiltros-mejorando-la-calidad-del.html

Kingkong
16th Aug 2011, 10:24 PM
I use a pre-filter infront of my 2217 ,works well and i haven't touched it for 6 months
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/8757/barrin405.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/barrin405.jpg/)
Also have one of these and works very well
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

Hi

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/6725/mollyscam150.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/190/mollyscam150.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

hi
guys,

I' m looking for this pre filter. Can somebody help me with the brand that fits an eheim? I can look for it in the netherlands.

Kingkong
19th Aug 2011, 08:40 AM
Hi,

I found the prefilter at a store in Hong kong I think. I'm not sure if I can post the name etc..

But I do have a question. I'm not really experienced in connecting technical stuff.

Can someone help me with detailed descriptions or pictures, videos for how to connect all canisters with prefilter so I have 1 inlet and 1 outlet in the aquarium?

I'm gonna use different types of eheim, is this gonna be a problem for the pressure?

I'm gonna use 2 canisters for 1 tank: eheim 2224 and connect this to a eheim 2213. I have the opportunity to connect a third eheim, should I do that?

If I use the prefilter before the 2213, should I put siporax in both the 2213 and the 2224?

Thanks in advance

bikersoy
19th Aug 2011, 09:34 AM
You could put the name of the product and who is interested can search by Google.
The ones I've seen come with two tube sizes 12/16 and 16/22.
Remove the outer perlon your filter and put more biological material.
The prefilter is filled with perlon, as is clear you can see when to change it.
You have to put it in the suction hose, before the filter.
Now you forget for a long time cleaning your filters and these will have much biological material.

bikersoy
19th Aug 2011, 09:58 AM
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/khaoss/bichorium/70.jpg


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/khaoss/bichorium/spd_20090420143615_b.jpg

bikersoy
19th Aug 2011, 10:08 AM
If you connect two filters in series must have the same capacity of the pump if one stops the other
EHEIM 2213 440L / h
EHEIM 2224 700l / h
Also I prefer them separate, filter out many more liters / hour in your tank
Would be greatest in series 700l / h
Independent 700l / h + 440L / h = 1140l / h

bikersoy
19th Aug 2011, 10:11 AM
The bacteria consume oxygen, perhaps the advantage of putting them in series, in the last filter since there is almost no oxygen so you have a colony of anaerobic bacteria

MananaP
20th Aug 2011, 07:44 AM
I have used 2 even 3 filters in series but to tell you frankly not only it is costly and use those filters for other tanks they work in terms of breeding shrimps the same. The only difference maybe is you have more water volume and you can clean out one filter without touching the other. I use Big eheim filters for smaller tanks which i only end up rinsing with tank water once a year all my filters and again it works the same to me. If your reason is for more bacteria there are many ways to solve that like using big sponge filters and a DIY system like i made here for my bacteria colony...

http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo250/mananap888/002ae677.jpg

mickdeja
20th Aug 2011, 08:02 AM
This in line filtration is new to me but very interesting. Thanks to all for sharin their diy stories and pics.

MananaP
20th Aug 2011, 10:36 AM
I have to add also those breeders with multiple canisters in series they only have 2-3 tanks as i have seen here with breeders from Taiwan etc...

Kingkong
20th Aug 2011, 11:48 AM
Hi mananaP,

Please share your experience and thoughts!
I want to connect the prefilter to the outlet tube of the undergravel filter. Then connect it to the 2 eheim 2224. This is indeed to create extra surface for bacteria growth. I thought this was the same purpose for the topbreeders. But if you have other ideas please share.

First i wanted to put up a small 1 ft tank right next to my main tank and fill this up with k1 kaldnes media. I would let the outlet of the eheim run into this small tank and use another eheim to pump it into my main tank. But if 1 eheim breaksdown my small tank would run over.
This was my first idea but you are more then welcome to shape up the idea.

First i wanted a shrimprack with 12 tanks but Imke advised me to concentrate on 1 or 2 high quality tanks rather then 12 mediocre tanks. And as we can see, topbreeders are also using these amounts.
Its more cOst effective for me to put in the money in 1 or 2 tanks with great filtration.

bikersoy
20th Aug 2011, 12:25 PM
I have two tanks of 54 liters with filter plates with suction connected to a 2211.
Do not recommend it will have to siphon a lot, the floor becomes very dirty.
It is better that the filter plates is independent, and only connect it to an air compressor.

MananaP
20th Aug 2011, 09:13 PM
Hi mananaP,

Please share your experience and thoughts!
I want to connect the prefilter to the outlet tube of the undergravel filter. Then connect it to the 2 eheim 2224. This is indeed to create extra surface for bacteria growth. I thought this was the same purpose for the topbreeders. But if you have other ideas please share.

First i wanted to put up a small 1 ft tank right next to my main tank and fill this up with k1 kaldnes media. I would let the outlet of the eheim run into this small tank and use another eheim to pump it into my main tank. But if 1 eheim breaksdown my small tank would run over.
This was my first idea but you are more then welcome to shape up the idea.

First i wanted a shrimprack with 12 tanks but Imke advised me to concentrate on 1 or 2 high quality tanks rather then 12 mediocre tanks. And as we can see, topbreeders are also using these amounts.
Its more cOst effective for me to put in the money in 1 or 2 tanks with great filtration.

I shared a little of my experience already in my previous post, as i said there are many ways to have optimum bacteria in the tank without having 3-4 canisters connected in series because as i mentioned i have done this years back and have not noticed a noticeable difference in terms of breeding. If you want cost effective then i would suggest 1 big canister in each tank and just add air driven sponges to have even more bacteria. Top breeders that Imke is referring to are those breeders who sells their shrimps for premium price(PLR's) and yes this is correct if you are talking about each shrimp costing into thousands of dollars then it is best to invest thousands of dollars also in equipment. However if you are not doing PLR's that cost you a fortune then one canister per tank is sufficient, i have canisters which is rated 100-150gallon tanks used in 20g tanks...

Your idea is not bad but running each canister in series is a NO-NO, you are missing the point all together. The main reason of the series of canisters is more water thus more stable tank and more bacteria house and less cleaning to be done also means less stress to the shrimps. If you decide to run canisters in series you will only run ONE of the canisters and i would prefer to use the strongest in all of them in terms of how much they are rated for. As i said it is useless to run 3-4 perfectly usable canisters if you are not breeding very expensive shrimps. I want to also point out that in asia you can get just canister housing which they are probably using without the motor etc, they are probably using just the canister housing in my opinion.

Kingkong
21st Aug 2011, 09:39 PM
Thanks a lot mananap!

It would be useless when i use 3 good canisters only for extra space. Indeed i would think of your diy method. Did you created yourself? It looks pretty good to me.

Can you tell me more about your diy?

Im trying to keep taiwan bees.

MananaP
22nd Aug 2011, 07:15 AM
Thanks a lot mananap!

It would be useless when i use 3 good canisters only for extra space. Indeed i would think of your diy method. Did you created yourself? It looks pretty good to me.

Can you tell me more about your diy?

Im trying to keep taiwan bees.

The concept is easy, i just use one of those betta box and drilled a hole to channel all the air from the air stone which is in the bottom connected to an air pump. Also stuffed it with Eheim substrat pro. Bacteria needs air, also i want to point out some breeders go to extreme and drill a hole on their canisters and connect a tube which is connected to an air pump to pump air into the canister...

avex30
24th Aug 2011, 03:04 AM
I use a pre-filter infront of my 2217 ,works well and i haven't touched it for 6 months
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/8757/barrin405.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/barrin405.jpg/)
Also have one of these and works very well
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/6725/mollyscam150.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/190/mollyscam150.jpg/)



Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)


Wow Matt can tell me where you find that ToTTo prefilter?? heard they are close no longer in production can you pm me??

Danimals
20th Oct 2011, 05:13 AM
I'm not quite getting it...what's the point of running all those filters inline? Wouldn't it be far more effective (bacteria capacity) and cheaper to drill your tank and DIY a wet/dry solution?
That and why do you need pre-filters that are actual physical chambers? Wouldn't a simple sponge over the intake do a better job at preserving shrimp fry and keeping them out of the filter?

I've never seen anything like this done before so please forgive me for coming off as dense but it looks grossly inefficient to me.

mordalphus
20th Oct 2011, 05:34 AM
wet dry filter is fine too

I run canisters in series because it is easier for me to store the dummy canisters and more convenient than a sump.

And the pre-filter isn't to protect shrimp, it's just a container to hold more media.

You would freak out if you saw my filter setups for my tanks. The lower the pH, the more media is necessary because the bacteria become less efficient the lower the pH. My taiwan bee tank has pH of 5, and has 5 inches of substrate over a UGF, UGF is connected to prefilter full of bio media, prefilter is connected to large canister filter full of bio media. Also 2 large air powered sponge filters inside the tank for aeration and additional biomedia. So far, many many shrimplets

madness
20th Oct 2011, 05:40 AM
Am I correct in assuming that people are intentionally keeping the system pressurized primarily in order to avoid the overflow/return issues that are part of using a sump?

Or is there some chemical or biological benefit to designing the system as a high volume canister system rather than an overflow/sump/return system?

mordalphus
20th Oct 2011, 05:43 AM
I've never used a sump so I cannot give you the pros/cons. Although since the overflow would definitely need some sort of prefilter on it, which may prevent water flowing back down into the sump, and could possibly lead to flooding?

MananaP
20th Oct 2011, 07:24 AM
wet dry filter is fine too

I run canisters in series because it is easier for me to store the dummy canisters and more convenient than a sump.

And the pre-filter isn't to protect shrimp, it's just a container to hold more media.

You would freak out if you saw my filter setups for my tanks. The lower the pH, the more media is necessary because the bacteria become less efficient the lower the pH. My taiwan bee tank has pH of 5, and has 5 inches of substrate over a UGF, UGF is connected to prefilter full of bio media, prefilter is connected to large canister filter full of bio media. Also 2 large air powered sponge filters inside the tank for aeration and additional biomedia. So far, many many shrimplets

Oh i would love to see your filtration system my friend. ;) Pictures please... hehehehe

mordalphus
20th Oct 2011, 07:34 AM
Sorry for bad pics:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pHosting/f/7239_filterc.jpg
substrate depth (UGF + 2 gallons of seachem matrix + 2kg ceramic bio media + 9 liters africana + 3 liters mr. aqua)
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pHosting/f/7240_subc.jpg
sponge filter with extended uplift tube on each side of tank:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pHosting/f/7241_tankc.jpg

30 gallon tank, about 300 gallons worth of filtration, haha

MananaP
20th Oct 2011, 07:42 AM
Thanks bro, very nice hahahaha "over kill" if you ask me for filtration. I see you are taking this very seriously. :) Post some pictures of your baby TB's bro i want to see how they are doing hehehehe... :) TY for sharing...

mordalphus
20th Oct 2011, 07:50 AM
overkill is 100% correct, haha, I know you don't use overkill filtration, but I'm glad I did. My survival rate of offspring in this tank is higher than any of my other tanks, although that could just be because I baby it more than the others, hah!

Ecalyte
20th Oct 2011, 08:10 AM
Hello everyone,

I would like to share the reasoning behind why people do in-line filtration. Quite a few will do it just because other people are doing it without knowing the actual reasoning behind it.

The purpose of in-line canister filtration is not so much to provide more housing for bacteria, but for the purpose of cultivating another type of bacteria: anaerobic. Why? Simple, these bacteria oxydizes nitrates.

How they intend for it to work is to have enough colony of bacteria in the first few canisters to exhaust most if not all of the Oxygen from the water. Since this is a pressurized system, there is no other way for oxygen to get diffused into the water column. So what happens next is that anaerobic (bacteria that require low to zero oxygen to survive) bacteria will start to colonize in the last (few?) canisters. Now because we can't really know at which point of the system O2 is exhausted most people just in-line 3-4 to play it safe, watch their nitrates level and adjust accordingly. The Totto filter does it by having multiple chambers in a pressurized system so that the last few chambers will cultivate these anaerobic bacteria.

I haven't tried this myself, but from the accounts I've read of people doing this.. their Nitrates is as close to zero as you'd hope for. Most Taiwanese breeders use a bare-tank concept, that means.. there's barely any plants or decor.. just soil and shrimps. So the problem these breeders constantly run into is crazy amounts of nitrates, without plants to help them reduce it. This is why they've resorted to using in-line canisters.

Actually anaerobic bacteria occurs naturally in our tanks at the very bottom of our gravel where oxygen is close to zero. But there isn't any amount of significant water exchange between the bottom-most layer of the soil to the tank water, so the nitrate reduction results of these naturally occuring anaerobic bacteria is very negligible. Even more so for people who run UGF, this will ensure that there is zero anaerobic bacteria in their tanks

soonhong
20th Oct 2011, 08:57 AM
Just to share my 2 x1.5 x.1.5ft tank with 3 partitions.....3 canisters inline and another 2 canisters run individually. Sorry for the background sound in the video..

nqtiiDmWELE

Thanks for viewing.

soonhong
20th Oct 2011, 09:11 AM
Hello everyone,

I would like to share the reasoning behind why people do in-line filtration. Quite a few will do it just because other people are doing it without knowing the actual reasoning behind it.

The purpose of in-line canister filtration is not so much to provide more housing for bacteria, but for the purpose of cultivating another type of bacteria: anaerobic. Why? Simple, these bacteria oxydizes nitrates.

How they intend for it to work is to have enough colony of bacteria in the first few canisters to exhaust most if not all of the Oxygen from the water. Since this is a pressurized system, there is no other way for oxygen to get diffused into the water column. So what happens next is that anaerobic (bacteria that require low to zero oxygen to survive) bacteria will start to colonize in the last (few?) canisters. Now because we can't really know at which point of the system O2 is exhausted most people just in-line 3-4 to play it safe, watch their nitrates level and adjust accordingly. The Totto filter does it by having multiple chambers in a pressurized system so that the last few chambers will cultivate these anaerobic bacteria.

I haven't tried this myself, but from the accounts I've read of people doing this.. their Nitrates is as close to zero as you'd hope for. Most Taiwanese breeders use a bare-tank concept, that means.. there's barely any plants or decor.. just soil and shrimps. So the problem these breeders constantly run into is crazy amounts of nitrates, without plants to help them reduce it. This is why they've resorted to using in-line canisters.

Actually anaerobic bacteria occurs naturally in our tanks at the very bottom of our gravel where oxygen is close to zero. But there isn't any amount of significant water exchange between the bottom-most layer of the soil to the tank water, so the nitrate reduction results of these naturally occuring anaerobic bacteria is very negligible. Even more so for people who run UGF, this will ensure that there is zero anaerobic bacteria in their tanks

I think Bro Ecalyte is correct ...

Kazuya
20th Oct 2011, 02:17 PM
Morph what UGF are you using?
Is it the Azoo pvc type?

Love the overkill filters you guys have.
I run 2 filters chained per tank.
Wife only allows 2 tanks for now.

Speedie408
20th Oct 2011, 04:50 PM
Hello everyone,

I would like to share the reasoning behind why people do in-line filtration. Quite a few will do it just because other people are doing it without knowing the actual reasoning behind it.

The purpose of in-line canister filtration is not so much to provide more housing for bacteria, but for the purpose of cultivating another type of bacteria: anaerobic. Why? Simple, these bacteria oxydizes nitrates.

How they intend for it to work is to have enough colony of bacteria in the first few canisters to exhaust most if not all of the Oxygen from the water. Since this is a pressurized system, there is no other way for oxygen to get diffused into the water column. So what happens next is that anaerobic (bacteria that require low to zero oxygen to survive) bacteria will start to colonize in the last (few?) canisters. Now because we can't really know at which point of the system O2 is exhausted most people just in-line 3-4 to play it safe, watch their nitrates level and adjust accordingly. The Totto filter does it by having multiple chambers in a pressurized system so that the last few chambers will cultivate these anaerobic bacteria.

I haven't tried this myself, but from the accounts I've read of people doing this.. their Nitrates is as close to zero as you'd hope for. Most Taiwanese breeders use a bare-tank concept, that means.. there's barely any plants or decor.. just soil and shrimps. So the problem these breeders constantly run into is crazy amounts of nitrates, without plants to help them reduce it. This is why they've resorted to using in-line canisters.

Actually anaerobic bacteria occurs naturally in our tanks at the very bottom of our gravel where oxygen is close to zero. But there isn't any amount of significant water exchange between the bottom-most layer of the soil to the tank water, so the nitrate reduction results of these naturally occuring anaerobic bacteria is very negligible. Even more so for people who run UGF, this will ensure that there is zero anaerobic bacteria in their tanks

Thanks for the explanation. If what you're saying is true, it's not good to use UGF since it'll kill all the anaerobic bacteria in the gravel because oxygen is getting pulled through the substrate, correct?

silane
20th Oct 2011, 05:07 PM
How they intend for it to work is to have enough colony of bacteria in the first few canisters to exhaust most if not all of the Oxygen from the water. Since this is a pressurized system, there is no other way for oxygen to get diffused into the water column. So what happens next is that anaerobic (bacteria that require low to zero oxygen to survive) bacteria will start to colonize in the last (few?) canisters. Now because we can't really know at which point of the system O2 is exhausted most people just in-line 3-4 to play it safe, watch their nitrates level and adjust accordingly. The Totto filter does it by having multiple chambers in a pressurized system so that the last few chambers will cultivate these anaerobic bacteria.


Interesting points you have made. My thought is something along the first few inline filter has to use up the oxygen then the the last stages of the filter can be in anaerobic condition. So aerobic bacteria has to be present in the first few stages of the filter to use up the oxygen in a generally oxygen rich shrimp tank. The aerobic bacteria would be the one which oxides ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate. So you see, it has to be in a prefect stage of equilibrium, then the last few stage of the filter can be in anaerobic condition, which I think is not easy, when the flow is big.

So for denitrator, the flow rate is in drip per second, the first stages used up the oxygen and the last stage will be in anaerobic and thus denitrifying bacteria will grow in anaerobic condition.

That's my thought.

silane
20th Oct 2011, 05:09 PM
Thanks for the explanation. If what you're saying is true, it's not good to use UGF since it'll kill all the anaerobic bacteria in the gravel because oxygen is getting pulled through the substrate, correct?

Depend on your need, you may want to use partial base of the tank with UGF and the other part of the gravel can be in anaerobic condition.

Danimals
20th Oct 2011, 07:48 PM
Hello everyone,

I would like to share the reasoning behind why people do in-line filtration. Quite a few will do it just because other people are doing it without knowing the actual reasoning behind it.

The purpose of in-line canister filtration is not so much to provide more housing for bacteria, but for the purpose of cultivating another type of bacteria: anaerobic. Why? Simple, these bacteria oxydizes nitrates.

How they intend for it to work is to have enough colony of bacteria in the first few canisters to exhaust most if not all of the Oxygen from the water. Since this is a pressurized system, there is no other way for oxygen to get diffused into the water column. So what happens next is that anaerobic (bacteria that require low to zero oxygen to survive) bacteria will start to colonize in the last (few?) canisters. Now because we can't really know at which point of the system O2 is exhausted most people just in-line 3-4 to play it safe, watch their nitrates level and adjust accordingly. The Totto filter does it by having multiple chambers in a pressurized system so that the last few chambers will cultivate these anaerobic bacteria.

I haven't tried this myself, but from the accounts I've read of people doing this.. their Nitrates is as close to zero as you'd hope for. Most Taiwanese breeders use a bare-tank concept, that means.. there's barely any plants or decor.. just soil and shrimps. So the problem these breeders constantly run into is crazy amounts of nitrates, without plants to help them reduce it. This is why they've resorted to using in-line canisters.

Actually anaerobic bacteria occurs naturally in our tanks at the very bottom of our gravel where oxygen is close to zero. But there isn't any amount of significant water exchange between the bottom-most layer of the soil to the tank water, so the nitrate reduction results of these naturally occuring anaerobic bacteria is very negligible. Even more so for people who run UGF, this will ensure that there is zero anaerobic bacteria in their tanks

Ahhhh...now that makes sense. Another question tho, I was always under the impression that anaerobic bacteria is bad, isn't that why people tell you to not leave your canister filter unplugged for too long?

Also wouldn't it be more effective to just toss a bunch of Marimo Balls/Mosses into your tank to mitigate nitrates?

mordalphus
20th Oct 2011, 08:17 PM
Thanks for the explanation. If what you're saying is true, it's not good to use UGF since it'll kill all the anaerobic bacteria in the gravel because oxygen is getting pulled through the substrate, correct?

My ugf only runs through 2/3rds of my tank there is a 1/3rd patch of biomedia under the left side that is for anaerobic bacteria

And yah, kazuya, azoo tubes for ugf

Speedie408
20th Oct 2011, 08:33 PM
My ugf only runs through 2/3rds of my tank there is a 1/3rd patch of biomedia under the left side that is for anaerobic bacteria

And yah, kazuya, azoo tubes for ugf

COOL! I'm going this route too so thanks for the input Liam. Biomedia... you're talking about Seachem Matrix correct? I know Howard told me to use ADA Africana but which is better?

Kazuya
20th Oct 2011, 08:49 PM
My ugf only runs through 2/3rds of my tank there is a 1/3rd patch of biomedia under the left side that is for anaerobic bacteria


Just to be a bit clear. The 1/3 patch side has no UGF under it?
Does the rest of the UGF not have anything under it?

Thanks

Ecalyte
21st Oct 2011, 12:18 AM
Thanks for the explanation. If what you're saying is true, it's not good to use UGF since it'll kill all the anaerobic bacteria in the gravel because oxygen is getting pulled through the substrate, correct?

Not really. Like I said before, the anaerobic bacteria that naturally occurs in the bottom-most layer of the soil doesn't come across too much water transfer between itself and the tank's water. This means that it's very insignificant.


Ahhhh...now that makes sense. Another question tho, I was always under the impression that anaerobic bacteria is bad, isn't that why people tell you to not leave your canister filter unplugged for too long?

Also wouldn't it be more effective to just toss a bunch of Marimo Balls/Mosses into your tank to mitigate nitrates?

The reason why it's not good to leave your canister unplugged for too long is to prevent the death of your aerobic bacteria that's already cultivated in your canister..

mordalphus
21st Oct 2011, 02:56 AM
Just to be a bit clear. The 1/3 patch side has no UGF under it?
Does the rest of the UGF not have anything under it?

Thanks

Yep, the 1/3rd with no UGF is just biomedia and soil. The 2/3rds has biomedia, soil and UGF. The UGF is raised from the bottom by an inch, so there is biomedia all around it. (since it's tubes)

Kazuya
21st Oct 2011, 11:58 AM
Unfortunately I have to use a plate UGF for my next set up.
I have some shrimp coming in and have no time on making another pvc type.
The dremmel is the killer part.

Thanks again Liam

Kingkong
21st Oct 2011, 03:59 PM
Wow, haven't folliw thus thread for while and changed into a very interesting thread.
I have 3 canisters running separately in 1 tank of 80cm x 40cm x 40cm

So this is only good for the aerobic bacteria and there is almost no anaerobic bacteria?

I thougt both forms of bacteria a denytrifying?

But Silane, now i know why you set up your tanks like that. 1/3 without Ugf!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge about this!!

Kazuya
28th Oct 2011, 10:35 PM
I want to ask everyone that has multiple canister, do yours make a noise like air is going in?
It's not a loud noise. Some what of a rev up.
It also pushes bubbles out the rainbar when this noise happens.

Is this normal?

I have primed them good and made sure all connections are on tight. It does not bother me just want to know if it will harm the shrimp if to much air goes into the water.

mordalphus
29th Oct 2011, 02:57 AM
Mine does not, how many canisters in line do you have? Could it be gas from anaerobic bacteria converting nitrates? How often does this happen for you?

And that shouldn't be hazardous for any shrimps if it's just air in the line.

How is yours set up? Is your main canister pushing through the others, or pulling through them? It should be pulling through them, having gravity helping move the water through them.

bikersoy
29th Oct 2011, 06:28 AM
Sorry, but this tends to happen sometimes because the filters are filled with air.
At least that happens to me when I clean a filter is filled with air and before you exit noisy then is pure silence.
One question the pumps are of the same capacity liters / hour?

Kazuya
29th Oct 2011, 09:19 AM
Mine does not, how many canisters in line do you have? Could it be gas from anaerobic bacteria converting nitrates? How often does this happen for you?

And that shouldn't be hazardous for any shrimps if it's just air in the line.

How is yours set up? Is your main canister pushing through the others, or pulling through them? It should be pulling through them, having gravity helping move the water through them.

2 on each tank.
Tank 1 has 2213 to 2215 (which is the main canister pulling)
Tank 2 has Superjet to 2215 (same as above). This might get changed as the flow is really low. Unless that is a good thing.

Happens 2x every few hours. It's not loud at all.

Kazuya
29th Oct 2011, 09:29 AM
Sorry, but this tends to happen sometimes because the filters are filled with air.
At least that happens to me when I clean a filter is filled with air and before you exit noisy then is pure silence.
One question the pumps are of the same capacity liters / hour?
When I had one filter only. I would clean it, it makes noise then goes silent. This is different.
There are no opening. All filter are new.
I can be wrong but I doubt capacity has anything to do with this.
2213 3L, 2215 5L, Superjet 6L, 2224 Do not know it's new and don't use it.

mordalphus
29th Oct 2011, 09:29 AM
Happens on both of them? Because if the flow is really slow on one of them, the stronger filter may be creating a vacuum which would pull gas from the water. Like when you have a suction cup on the glass of your tank, and it slowly forms a ball of air underneath, and pulling on the suction cup makes the ball of gas bigger until it loses suction, then the ball of gas comes out and floats to the top.

That's the only thing I can think of if there's no leak, either gas buildup from anaerobic bacteria, or a vacuum created by the larger filter having to pull water through so much that it's creating a strong vacuum which is creating air in the filter.

Kazuya
29th Oct 2011, 09:40 AM
Yes it happens on both.
None of this is harmful correct?

The air bubbles that push out are similar to when you have the spraybar above water aimed down.

I can only change out 1 filter. I do not really like the tray things on the 2224.
The capacity of media on a Superjet is SO NICE.

It does not bother me just had me worried.

mordalphus
29th Oct 2011, 09:47 AM
Not harmful to your shrimp, no.

bikersoy
29th Oct 2011, 02:42 PM
2213:440l/h
2215:620l/H
2227:700l/h

If you connect two different power filters I remove the rotor from the less powerful to avoid forced labor.
Not good for working with air filter.
I leave a link that explains how to do
FILTERING AN AQUARIUM (http://translate.google.es/translate?sl=es&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=es&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fcolectivo-cae.blogspot.com%2F2009%2F03%2Ffiltrando-un-acuario.html)

Kazuya
29th Oct 2011, 02:53 PM
Good article.

I can not take out the motor of the Superjet filter. So instead of running the 2215 as the main filter I will run the Superjet.
Another good thing about this filter it does not slow down in flow rate. (Of course this is when used alone. Hopefully it will work when being chained.)

Tienes un privado.

bikersoy
29th Oct 2011, 02:56 PM
Superjet filter is ADA?

Kazuya
29th Oct 2011, 03:00 PM
Yes. It was a gift from my friends here in Spain.

bikersoy
29th Oct 2011, 03:18 PM
Superjet has a very powerful pump high consumption so never loses power.
As filter manufacturers seeking low consumption ADA gives more importance to Rendimento the filter.
The result is that consumption in a large filter can reach 20W while they spend nearly 80W
http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/9509/ada115103.jpg
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/9706/img6074resizeft2.jpg
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/731/img6069resizety1.jpg
http://www.shrimpnow.com/forums/showthread.php/5523-Filter-D.I.Y/page2

mordalphus
31st Oct 2011, 04:48 AM
Kazuya, I made a UGF for my newest tank, a 20g. Here it is, just PVC with holes on the lowest 2 pipes every inch, and holes in the top pipe every 2 inches to balance flow. The connector is a quick connect that is the same size as eheim upflow pipe. I put in tank, filled around with ceramic bio media, and then put soil in. This tubes setup leaves 1/3 of the tank bare. Easy to make, just used pvc pipe, 4 elbows, one tee, one threaded elbow and a threaded quick connect connector. Only tools I used was drill for the holes and a hacksaw for cutting the PVC, took me 10 minutes to make.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pHosting/f/7450_IMAG0144c.jpg

Soothing Shrimp
31st Oct 2011, 01:36 PM
Awesome. I love DIY stuff. We should have more here.