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Thread: Crystal Red Naoki Tank

  1. #101
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    Default Now lowering GH

    A little update on my Naoki CR tank:

    I caught all shrimp (still around 40, mostly younger), emptied the tank, washed the basalt gravel, cleaned all filters (UGF, canister, sponge)

    then added the UGF and gravel on the right side of the tank, to cover the UGF plates. rest is bare bottom for better cleaning

    I filled the tank with around 40L RO water and rest tap water, which made the GH drop from 13 to 8. Added the shrimp after one night, they already seem to have better coloration and hopefully with re-start breeding. I will check if I can get my hands on some liquid bacteria boosters, for the next water changes.

    To be honest, the tank had more mulm and mud as I suspected.

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    Default stainless steel intake strainers for my canister

    Another update on this tank of mine: Thanks to Liam, I have now some new stainless steel intake strainers for my canister filter. Also cleaned the tank again today. Shrimp will move back tomorrow, they are sitting in a bucket.

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    looking good imke i also have the same strainers, they work so much better than any pother product imho, but are not expensive either!

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    Hi Mike. Wie Geths ?

    Based on your experience with UGF filter, do you still recomend it to be used with a Canister Filter? Or maybe to be not so radical, how about using with an inert substrate like Basalt or sand? I am planning my rack with 3 levels of tanks, and one mini canister on each level, using an internal divisory, with same undergravel system filtration.

    Thanks - Danke - Auf Wiedersehen
    Luis

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by luisdj View Post
    Based on your experience with UGF filter, do you still recomend it to be used with a Canister Filter? Or maybe to be not so radical, how about using with an inert substrate like Basalt or sand?
    I still recommend air diven UGF with extra canister and sponge filters and active soil, if you use an RO unit for water changes at the same time. My thoughts in filtration for higher grade shrimp are:

    Filtration
    Filtration is a big issue in shrimp breeding, and honestly I mean ‘over filtration’. If you check photos from Japanese shrimp keeper blogs, you will see that they combine different filtration methods:

    - at least one or even more canister filter (in line, not parallel – for a better nitrification)
    - and UGF, either attached to the canister inlet or air driven
    - sponge-air filters or diffuser on the canister outlet for better aeration

    I have found reports that for a 150L shrimp tank, three canister filter in line are used, in combination with permanent use of active carbon (breeder HIM LAU from Hong Kong)

    If you are planning to house expansive shrimp, an external canister filter is a must. With the possibility to insert different filter media, you can quickly invent with carbon, nitrate remover or other active filter pads to fight problems in your tank. For standard filter media, you will find different advises in the forums – ranging from a combination of mechanical and biological filtration to a biological filtration only. Approved biological filter media are Power House mono ball, Eheim Substrate Pro and Sera Siporax mini.

    Also, the air-driven filtration will support the nitrification process and help berried females to make it through the hatchery period. As sponge filters are an ideal baby home, my advice is to at least have a sponge and a canister filter.

    If you decide for a non-planted tank and an UGF, check out the capacity of your air pump, it should be strong enough to circulate the all water volume minimum twice per hour. Though the capacity depends also on the gravel height I would always buy a bigger pump and choke it when needed. I used to have a Sera 550R (550l/hour) for two 20L tanks with UGF. Almost every air pump makes a noise; this is why this set up is nothing for bedrooms Gravel height should be at least 5-7 cm, and can be at maximum 10-12 cm high. By the way: I do not use zeolite as first layer on the plates, because bacteria will clog its surface quickly, and one cannot remove it when it is leached.

    quoted from my blog shrimpsider

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    After I have given away a larger number of shrimp, and tried to run the tank with only few gravel, an unpleasant series of causalities started, which turned out to be some kind of bacterial infection. I have shut down the tank for the moment, and moved my CR as well as my CB both in my new ADA AMAZONIA tank. So, the story of my Naoki group officially ends here.

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