View Full Version : How to redo tank with Shrimp?

6th Feb 2006, 08:30 AM
I want to redo my tank. How do I go about it without burying any shrimp?

6th Feb 2006, 11:01 AM
Slowly. They should be able to get out of the way unless you dump alot of gravel on them at once.


6th Feb 2006, 12:53 PM
IMO, Its best to place them in another temporary small tank(with moss and sponge filter)

If your tank has base fert, heavy replanting will cause lots of casualties.

If its just adding gravel(non-ADA and neutral ones), try to add slowly using a scoop or cup and 'test the new water' with a few shrimps. Remember always practise the proper acclimatization procedures when changing tanks, to minimize casualties.

7th Feb 2006, 09:55 AM
What is the proper acclimatization procedure? I'm not aware of anything but letting the temperature regulate between the two different bodies of water.

7th Feb 2006, 10:17 AM
What is the proper acclimatization procedure?

There is more to it then just temperature. For example difference in water parameters like PH, Salt content, KH/GH and etc. It applies to all be it fish or shrimp.

The acclimatization of fish is an incredibly important process. Without it, fish that you introduce to your tank, whether it is a new setup or not, will become severely stressed and as a result may die or suffer severely reduced life expectancy. The process itself is incredibly simple, and if more people stuck to it, then many stress related deaths could be avoided.

Acclimatization begins where you first pick up the fish. From the moment they leave their tank, whether it is from a private supplier, a local fish store or even out of the box that they were delivered in, the fish must be kept as still as possible. If you are driving home with your fish, then hold the fish in its box or bag in the air between your legs. This means that any sudden acceleration or stopping will mean that the fish will sway and not be bumped up against the side of their container. The container should also let in as little light as possible. Most fish stores will wrap a bag containing fish in old newspaper, and this is an excellent practice because dark conditions make fish suffer less from stress.

If your journey back to the new tank for the fish is long, make sure that you open the container at least once every thirty minutes to let in fresh air. This is not sufficient to keep a fish happily alive for more than a few hours, because the container used to transport the fish will be far below the recommended size to house the fish permanently. This reason alone is enough to discourage buying fish that are delivered by post, unless they are sent via a courier to arrive preferably within 12 hours, but no more than 24 hours.

Dark conditions make it much less likely to stress fish to the point of weakening their immune system and making them susceptible to illness. Make sure that throughout the process of moving the fish into its new aquarium, the fish sees as little light as possible. Draw the curtains in the room and turn off any aquarium lights. Obviously you will need to be able to see what you are doing, but as long as at least the aquarium lights are turned off, then your fish will feel a lot happier about everything that is going on.

Temperature difference
Fish generally are very intolerant of rapid changes in their water conditions. A sudden change in pH or KH can result in stress and illness. However, by far the most important factor to consider is the change in temperature. A five degree sudden change in temperature can be enough to cause most fish so much stress that they are likely to die within a day of the change. For this reason, we will always float fish.

If you have ever seen your local fish store on the day of a delivery, you will hopefully see that there are many bags with fish floating in the tanks that they will be kept in until sold. Fish stores have a lot to lose if a whole batch of fish suddenly dies from stress, and so they will usually take care to acclimatize their fish correctly. Floating fish in bags or containers such as plastic boxes or breeding isolators means that they will gradually become accustomed to the temperature of the tank. A fish should be floated in darkness for at least fifteen minutes. I personally float my fish for anything up to thirty minutes. While it seems to make sense to float a fish for as long as possible, to reduce the stress of transportation and temperature difference, don't forget that the fish is currently in a rather cramped environment, and a balance of introduction speed to temperature acclimatization needs to be found. For me, thirty minutes is perfect. It is also important to remember that even if the water in the transport container feels like it is the same temperature as your own tank, your fish will like a rest from the transport itself, and temperature is not the only thing to consider.

Water Conditions
Now that your new addition is used to the temperature of your aquarium, you will need to gradually add small amounts of water from your tank to the transport container. If the transport container currently has a fish in four cups of water, then you should add one cup of water from your own tank to this container every five to ten minutes. You should aim to add, gradually, the same volume of water that is in your transport container from your own tank over a period of fifteen to twenty minutes. Once you have done this, then it is on to the method of introduction.

Many fish stores use the same water and a large filtration system over many tanks. This is more efficient for the store and easier to maintain than having many individually filtered tanks, and as long as there is no disease in the water, fish kept in a system like this tend to thrive. However, always be aware that a single sick fish in one tank in a fish store could indicate that the disease is present in all tanks. The last thing you want to do is introduce a stressed and disease carrying fish into your own setup. The disease itself may already be present in your own tank, like ich, but will be dormant because your fish are healthy and resistant. Keep in mind that your new additions, no matter how well transported, will be stressed, and therefore vulnerable.

It is always recommended that if you are introducing a new fish to your tank that you do not introduce any new water to your own setup. Even if the fish you introduce is perfectly healthy, the water may not be. Therefore, once you have gone through the temperature and water condition acclimatization, you should catch your fish in a net and then add them to your tank. You should also leave the lights off for at least an hour after doing this.

7th Feb 2006, 06:35 PM
Thankyou for the excellent article above. Best I have seen! :D
I will print it off to keep

7th Feb 2006, 10:43 PM
Super replies simcb :2thumbsup

Definitely follow that advice if you are doing major renovations.

I would add that shipping stress can me lowered by use of ammonia "binding" products, using pure oxygen, and/or use of "breather bags".

I won't argue that 5 degrees (farenheit) is stressful, but I think most fish and some shrimp can handle that without problems. But, stress is cumulative and any way to reduce stress is good!

Known "sensitive" species can be acclimated using a drip method whereby a line of tubing is used to drip tank water into a container holding the specimen.


8th Feb 2006, 06:59 AM
Wow! Another great response to my question. Thank you for that. I just printed that off too. I'm gonna stick it in my Fish/Shrimp/Plant Info binder for later use.

8th Feb 2006, 09:55 AM
I won't argue that 5 degrees (farenheit) is stressful

Ops :D , sorry guys forgot to include the temperature unit, I meant degC
5.00 degC = 41.00 degF. This applies better to long distance delivery.

Cold countries with heater
21(degree Room temperature and below)to 26 degC tank temperature.

Tropical Countries with chiller
31(degree Room temperature and above) to 26 degC tank temperature.