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View Full Version : Eheim Classic 2211 ...to powerful for shrimp?



craynerd
25th Apr 2006, 06:29 AM
I have just got this filter for my planted 7g 24 x 8 x 8 inch tank. I really like Eheim so i got one but then realised it may be too dangerous/powerful for my shrimps and inhibit their breeding or suck in babys!

Since i baught the filter what modifications could i do to reduce the power/flowrate and make it suitable?

Regards
Chris

retardo
25th Apr 2006, 08:57 AM
If you can adjust the flowrate, bring it down as much as you can and attach a sponge filter on the intake of the filter. This will prevent any offspring from being sucked into the filter and meet an early demise. Beware that if the flowrate is still too high, weak shrimp may not be able to break free from the pull of the intake. Most, IMO, should be ok though.

zhima
28th Apr 2006, 06:57 AM
As retardo suggested, attach a sponge filter to the intake, and attach a spray bar on the output. Make the spray holes bigger if you have to.

loveshrimp
26th Mar 2009, 12:17 AM
was thinking to buy this Eheim Classic 2211 intro by the salesman for my 2ft tank.how's the heat produce by the machine itself? currently i'm using a UNF with 2x14 watt lighting.with a fan.temp will stay at 24 to 26 degree cel.used for 6months.so if i add this fliter in.... will the heat create by the motor of the fliter heat up the water?? due to costly bills i dont wish to throw in a chiller. PLS HELP ME !!!!!!!!!

Ghanguss
26th Apr 2009, 08:46 AM
My eheim 2213 has a power rating of 8 watts, The design also allows heat to escape through the top of the filter. It will add some heat to the tank, probably equivelant to 40% of the motor rating or less. (= <3 watts)

Frank
26th Apr 2009, 03:17 PM
Very long time ago I had a similar Eheim filter.
To reduce the waterflow inform about "Rapid disconnecting coupling" or "Shut-off valve".
http://www.eheim.de/eheim/inhalte/index.jsp?key=liniendetail_27655_ehen
Only the inflow can be reduced, not the outflow side!
Further the cleaning is much easier with these accessories.
Consider the diameter of your tubes.

mtbjuls
26th Apr 2009, 08:26 PM
I recently bought this filter for my 30 litre tank (8g)

I have been using a Hob filter at 150-200lph with Seachem Denitrate as the biomedia and it's been working excellently (no Nitrate, ammonia or nitrite readings for over 3 months with 30 shrimps and 2 ottos, regular overfeeding)

So I wanted to expand the amount of Denitrate i was using, the Hob i could fit roughly 100-150ml of denitrate in the filter.

with the Eheim i can fit 700ml of denitrate, as well as the lower water dispersion/crud catchers, and some purigen.

When i got the filter i got it running and measured the outflow. To my surprise it pumps a full 350LPH, when i've got it packed to death with Denitrate, purigen and micro filter pads, It's rated at 300lph, I expected alot less than this..

The denitrate does not work as "denitrate" over 200lph, Meaning i'd only get aerobic filtering, not to mention 11-12 times per hour turnover is excessive!

First thing i did was try to reduce the flow by cutting down the impellor, it has 3 teeth on it, first i took off 2-2.5mm off each tooth, This saw a reduction to about 250-260lph. so I then cut a further 2.5mm off each tooth, now there is nearly no impellor left, i was wondering if it would work, but it still works perfectly, no air issues, no noises (obviously each tooth is close to identical) I then measured the outflow again and got a reading of 200LPH.

This was still a little too much. So I went to my local hardware store (bunnings) and bought a $3 reticulation tap. I returned home and cleaned it well with kitchen detergent, followed by flushing all the detergent off.

I then fitted the tap on the Outtake of the filter (do not put it on the intake, this will cause the impellor to starve and take in air, making it noisy and possibly damaging it).

with the tap i was able to adjust the final flow rate, I was able to reduce it down to 140lph with very little tap restriction and without making any noticable strain on the filter impeller or any increased noise. (if i tried to get under 100lph then the filter made noticeable straining sound)

This final step brought me exactly where i wanted the output, at 4-5x turnover and under 200lph for the denitrate.

If you used the tap or crimped the tube only without first slowing the impellor output, you may strain the impellor and filter motor before reaching flows under 200lph.

Finally, I took the intake, I got a fairly fine foam off a smaller air lift biofoam filter which had a filter width of about 1.5" height of 4" and a hole in the middle about 6mm wide. One end of the filter is closed, the hole reaches about 1cm from the end.

I then took the intake pipe, and cut it down so it wasn't too long for my 12" high tank. The included intake strainer is not used, I then slid my foam prefilter over the pipe to see how far up it went, marked it. then took it off and drilled a considerable number of 3mm holes right through the pipe, from the bottom to about 1cm from my marking. Enough holes to evenly distribute the intake pressure, but not so many that the pipe is weakend.

Slide the Foam back over. Fill the filter with Denitrate, purigen and separate with fine filter foam/wool.. I used the harder 5mm thick fine filter foam elements from a Aqua one overhead tank filter (bought them from LFS for about $4, and cut them to shape) Since there is a intake foam filter, there is no need for anything but fine filtration in the canister. and this firmer foam makes perfect separators from the water disperser media at the bottom and the denitrate.

I have attached some pics, hope it helps, apologize the tank looks really unestablished, my established tank exploded (cracked and started emptying itself) on my benchtop a few days before this pic was taken so it's a freshly resetup tank. Luckily my biofilter and shrimps and most babys where saved.

I have only had this setup running for a week, but will make a update in a few months.
so far my experiment using denitrate in my HOB was positive, in fact i've NEVER had a nitrate reading while using it as my biomedia. (yet i can use the same test on all my other discus, cichlid, community tanks getting varying 5-40ppm readings, which i don't use denitrate on as the filters are too fast.) my idea was to use enough denitrate that it wasn't likely to need replacing for hopefully a year. but 700g of denitrate is only about $20 AUD ($15 usd) anyway not that bigger deal. the key is keeping the flow at around 100-150lph.

Hope this helps.
Juls