Introduction
The variety and manifestation of Dwarf shrimp diseases remain unexplored. Most of the information we have on shrimp maladies comes from research on aquacultured crustaceens, such as freshwater shrimp macrobrachium rosenbergii, crayfish, lobster and others. Another source of knowledge is gathered from studies on fish and especially the keeping of Koi.
Diagnosis and Symptoms
The diagnosis of shrimp diseases is a very complex area and it is often not possible to distinguish at first sight which or if any disease is present. In many cases, livestock are already affected when an outbreak becomes visible. It may start with one dead shrimp each day, and while water parameters may seem suitable, it can lead to molting problems and further fatalities. If shrimp turn white inside the body and their usual coloration fades, this only shows there is a problem in the circulation and a lack of oxygen in the body. Any fungal or bacterial infection in the body or harming of the gills can cause this. Most of these infections are secondary, meaning the actual cause is environmental, reducing the resistance of the shrimp. Some affected shrimp even lose antenna and other extremities (e.g. legs, eyes). In a later phase, shrimp are inactive and may ‘stagger’ through the water. These shrimp are more likely to die sooner rather than later. Some bacteria populations also erode the exoskeleton and shell: rusty, brown or black spots and holes are the visible signs of this. Also the gills can sometimes be damaged by bacterial pathogens.
Outbreak and Causes
The tank's bacterial count is the main cause for a bacterial infection in dwarf shrimp. In the summer months, shrimp keepers forums are full with threads like ‘Yet another dead’, ‘Help me, shrimps dying!’ or ‘Shrimps are inactive and pale’. Harmful and shell-degrading bacteria such as Vibrio, Aeromonas, and Pseudomonas groups can explode during this time and they affect shrimp as well as fish. Diseases are therefore also called Vibriosis. Overcrowded tanks with lots of organic waste and poor water quality pander to the disease. If the shrimp’s self defenses are debilitated, fungus and other parasites can easily penetrate it's systems as well.
Cure and Treatment
If you keep precious shrimps or a large amount of shrimp, you should contact your local vet and make a detailed analysis of both your shrimp and their tank, before using antibiotics or fungicides. You have to be even more careful if you live in a country with a high level of aqua farming, because some diseases can ‘flash over’ to farmed shrimp.
Biological and Organic Treatment methods
The most important thing to do is: to improve water quality which in turn reduces harmful bacteria.
Clean the tank and gravel from mud and leftovers regularly.
Check your filtration set up and clean pipes and filter if it is very dirty or running slow.
Use filter booster bacteria like Mosura Bacter 9 to raise beneficial bacteria (probiotics) in your tank.
Inject oxygen with a simple air stone or similar.
Do change the water daily, with a minimum of 80% (not less!) for at least two weeks. This lowers the quantity of bacteria. If you change less than 80% of the water, bacteria will bloom again. It is important that the incoming fresh water has the same water parameters as your tank. Changes in parameters e.g. pH or GH will stress your shrimp even more.
Feed less in both frequency and amount and remove ill or dead shrimp as soon as possible.
Add Indian Almond Leaves ('Ketapang Leaves') to support/promote healing.
Reduce stress for your shrimp.
Therapy with antibiotic drugs
Be careful with pharmaceuticals because the bacteria in your tank may be resistant to that specific antibiotic used or isn’t affected by it at all. Remember, not every medication used for fish is suitable for freshwater invertebrates too. Some can even kill shrimp, especially if they contain copper. Preparations you will need to follow should you want to use medication: Turn off the UV sterilizer and CO2 injection; do not use two drugs simultaneously, do not filter with carbon.
Antibiotics cause massive damage to the beneficial cleansing bacteria in the filter. Therefore we recommend disconnecting the filter from the tank and letting it run in another container with fresh tap water. It is also possible to remove the filter media and keep it in a bucket with water while the filter runs empty or with new media on the treatment tank. The important point is that you can re-use your cycled filter (media) after the treatment.
JBL Furanol
1 tablet for a 20L (5.28 US G) tank, added for 4 days. I did 80% water change after that and then added 1 pill again for 3 days. Filter with carbon for one week after usage to get rid of any last traces of the pharmaceutical.
Summary and Discussion
Current research in to the diseases of cultured shrimp is focusing on shrimp genetics, vaccinations and additives like beta-glucan or other immunostimulants in shrimp food. Dwarf shrimp keepers will hopefully profit from any new findings and have more products available soon to cure their shrimp diseases. In summary, good water hygiene and tank maintenance are the key to avoiding illnesses and diseases.
Appendix: Fish Medicaments already tested with Freshwater Dwarf Shrimp (against Bacterial Diseases)
Clindamycin
esHa Exit
JBL Furanol (2)
Seachem Paraguard
Sera Bactopur
http://www.shrimpnow.com/mygallery/files/4/7/2/8/bacterial_00.jpg
The left shrimp is ill, the two Blue Tigers on the right side still look normal
http://www.shrimpnow.com/mygallery/files/4/7/2/8/bacterial_01.jpg
This poor shrimp has obvious damage on all antennas. Legs also look white already.
http://www.shrimpnow.com/mygallery/files/4/7/2/8/bacterial_03.jpg
Bacteria changed coloration of this Red Tiger shrimp, too.
http://www.shrimpnow.com/mygallery/files/4/7/2/8/bacterial_06.jpg
This Red Tiger / Blue Tiger shrimp crossbreed has lost several legs due to bacteria. The shrimp died later on (as all others shown above).
Picture copyrights: Imke Jungjohann (http://www.shrimpnow.com/forums/member.php?u=4728) for shrimpnow.com
The variety and manifestation of Dwarf shrimp diseases remain unexplored. Most of the information we have on shrimp maladies comes from research on aquacultured crustaceens, such as freshwater shrimp macrobrachium rosenbergii, crayfish, lobster and others. Another source of knowledge is gathered from studies on fish and especially the keeping of Koi.
Diagnosis and Symptoms
The diagnosis of shrimp diseases is a very complex area and it is often not possible to distinguish at first sight which or if any disease is present. In many cases, livestock are already affected when an outbreak becomes visible. It may start with one dead shrimp each day, and while water parameters may seem suitable, it can lead to molting problems and further fatalities. If shrimp turn white inside the body and their usual coloration fades, this only shows there is a problem in the circulation and a lack of oxygen in the body. Any fungal or bacterial infection in the body or harming of the gills can cause this. Most of these infections are secondary, meaning the actual cause is environmental, reducing the resistance of the shrimp. Some affected shrimp even lose antenna and other extremities (e.g. legs, eyes). In a later phase, shrimp are inactive and may ‘stagger’ through the water. These shrimp are more likely to die sooner rather than later. Some bacteria populations also erode the exoskeleton and shell: rusty, brown or black spots and holes are the visible signs of this. Also the gills can sometimes be damaged by bacterial pathogens.
Outbreak and Causes
The tank's bacterial count is the main cause for a bacterial infection in dwarf shrimp. In the summer months, shrimp keepers forums are full with threads like ‘Yet another dead’, ‘Help me, shrimps dying!’ or ‘Shrimps are inactive and pale’. Harmful and shell-degrading bacteria such as Vibrio, Aeromonas, and Pseudomonas groups can explode during this time and they affect shrimp as well as fish. Diseases are therefore also called Vibriosis. Overcrowded tanks with lots of organic waste and poor water quality pander to the disease. If the shrimp’s self defenses are debilitated, fungus and other parasites can easily penetrate it's systems as well.
Cure and Treatment
If you keep precious shrimps or a large amount of shrimp, you should contact your local vet and make a detailed analysis of both your shrimp and their tank, before using antibiotics or fungicides. You have to be even more careful if you live in a country with a high level of aqua farming, because some diseases can ‘flash over’ to farmed shrimp.
Biological and Organic Treatment methods
The most important thing to do is: to improve water quality which in turn reduces harmful bacteria.
Clean the tank and gravel from mud and leftovers regularly.
Check your filtration set up and clean pipes and filter if it is very dirty or running slow.
Use filter booster bacteria like Mosura Bacter 9 to raise beneficial bacteria (probiotics) in your tank.
Inject oxygen with a simple air stone or similar.
Do change the water daily, with a minimum of 80% (not less!) for at least two weeks. This lowers the quantity of bacteria. If you change less than 80% of the water, bacteria will bloom again. It is important that the incoming fresh water has the same water parameters as your tank. Changes in parameters e.g. pH or GH will stress your shrimp even more.
Feed less in both frequency and amount and remove ill or dead shrimp as soon as possible.
Add Indian Almond Leaves ('Ketapang Leaves') to support/promote healing.
Reduce stress for your shrimp.
Therapy with antibiotic drugs
Be careful with pharmaceuticals because the bacteria in your tank may be resistant to that specific antibiotic used or isn’t affected by it at all. Remember, not every medication used for fish is suitable for freshwater invertebrates too. Some can even kill shrimp, especially if they contain copper. Preparations you will need to follow should you want to use medication: Turn off the UV sterilizer and CO2 injection; do not use two drugs simultaneously, do not filter with carbon.
Antibiotics cause massive damage to the beneficial cleansing bacteria in the filter. Therefore we recommend disconnecting the filter from the tank and letting it run in another container with fresh tap water. It is also possible to remove the filter media and keep it in a bucket with water while the filter runs empty or with new media on the treatment tank. The important point is that you can re-use your cycled filter (media) after the treatment.
JBL Furanol
1 tablet for a 20L (5.28 US G) tank, added for 4 days. I did 80% water change after that and then added 1 pill again for 3 days. Filter with carbon for one week after usage to get rid of any last traces of the pharmaceutical.
Summary and Discussion
Current research in to the diseases of cultured shrimp is focusing on shrimp genetics, vaccinations and additives like beta-glucan or other immunostimulants in shrimp food. Dwarf shrimp keepers will hopefully profit from any new findings and have more products available soon to cure their shrimp diseases. In summary, good water hygiene and tank maintenance are the key to avoiding illnesses and diseases.
Appendix: Fish Medicaments already tested with Freshwater Dwarf Shrimp (against Bacterial Diseases)
Clindamycin
esHa Exit
JBL Furanol (2)
Seachem Paraguard
Sera Bactopur
http://www.shrimpnow.com/mygallery/files/4/7/2/8/bacterial_00.jpg
The left shrimp is ill, the two Blue Tigers on the right side still look normal
http://www.shrimpnow.com/mygallery/files/4/7/2/8/bacterial_01.jpg
This poor shrimp has obvious damage on all antennas. Legs also look white already.
http://www.shrimpnow.com/mygallery/files/4/7/2/8/bacterial_03.jpg
Bacteria changed coloration of this Red Tiger shrimp, too.
http://www.shrimpnow.com/mygallery/files/4/7/2/8/bacterial_06.jpg
This Red Tiger / Blue Tiger shrimp crossbreed has lost several legs due to bacteria. The shrimp died later on (as all others shown above).
Picture copyrights: Imke Jungjohann (http://www.shrimpnow.com/forums/member.php?u=4728) for shrimpnow.com